Without giving the impression that this site is obsessed with Sydney Morning Herald restaurant critic Terry Durack, one suspects the man was so annoyed at having been forced by his editors to leave his usual Potts Point-Crown Street comfort zone to travel to the far reaches of the upper-Lower North Shore that he gave The Italian a 12/20 simply out of pique. With a trendier post code and an extra $10 tacked on to every menu item, with its Italian wines, wood-fired pizzas, caponata and all-but-mandatory salumi misti, The Italian would have been a dead-set 13.