And, to be fair, a lot of other critics and food bloggers as well. Colman Andrews nails it here:
Now that anyone can paraphrase menus, offer opinions on dishes and reach an audience in the process, I think those of us who have spent our careers doing the same – if presumably with a little more background knowledge and experience than the average Yelper – will have to up the ante. We have to write better and more intelligently. We have to address issues raised by the style and attitude of restaurants, by their hiring and sourcing practices, their cultural implications. And we should ask of chefs and restaurateurs what Goethe once said theatre critics should ask of playwrights: what are they attempting to do? Have they done it and done it well? And was it worth doing?
Food is a paradigm and a prism through which any number of ideas can be filtered, examined, and explored, and an industry with a helluva lot of interesting characters. There are only so many synonyms for “delicious” out there and a limit to the glib run-throughs of flavour-of-the-week menus readers can take.