The Numbers Game

So the annual list of the world’s so-called “Top 100” restaurants has been released, and naturally the press is buzzing with analysis of who’s up and who’s down and why. No surprise, modernist gastronomy continues to reign supreme with the likes of Noma, Alinea, and Osteria Francescana taking top spots on the list, and restaurants in Iberia and Iberia’s former colonies continue to be well represented as successor states to the old El Bulli.

There’s a certain point at which these sort of exercises become silly: Can anyone say that you’ll have a measurably worse meal at Restaurant Daniel (#25) in New York than you will at Le Chateaubriand (#15) in Paris? Nevertheless, I was pleased to see my beloved Eleven Madison Park come in at #10, and was disappointed that the top Australian eatery (Quay) only came in at #29, though for a country our size we’re doing reasonably well. What Marque (#61) is doing on the list at all is anyone’s guess.

Full list after the jump:

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Around the Traps

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Inner-West Review: Board Presentation

Presentation is a tricky thing, and too many restaurants wind up so obsessed with their slate or salt bricks that they forget what they’re putting on them. This morning Mrs Prick and I had this brought home when we wandered over to the other side of Parramatta Road to check out the recently-arrived Leichhardt outpost of Glebe’s Well Connected Cafe. We have a theory – and, given the offerings on the strip, something of a quiet hope – that Norton Street’s frankly tired Italian joints will soon make way for a more Annadale-style scene. Based on our breakfast, however, I’m not sure we’re quite there yet.

I mean, who puts pancakes on a cutting board? With a hole in it, no less? I mean, syrup, people!

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Bad idea.

Fortunately, Mrs Prick is a clever sort, and figured out a solution: Build a “dipping well” out of bananas:

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Good idea!

Really, cafe-goers looking for a bit of brekkie shouldn’t also have to undertake hydraulic engineering at the same time. Meanwhile, I had the eggs benedict with prosciutto: Good, but not great. Eggs perfectly cooked, but not enough unctuous oomph (nor lemon nor seasoning) in the hollandaise. Not enough prosciutto, either, and what was spinach doing there? As Frank Sinatra may or may not have said before he socked a bartender in the jaw after being served an olive in his martini, “If I’d wanted a salad, I would’ve ordered one!” And I’m not sure about this whole increasingly popular idea of serving eggs bennies on sourdough bread, because the whole affair quickly became a soggy mess. Memo to breakfast chefs everywhere: If you want to go off-recipe and avoid English muffins, go a good brioche.

In any case, I’m glad to see Well Connected come to town, and the Pricks welcome the Sonoma Bread crowd to Norton Street and hope it portends good things for the area. But there’s still some work to be done: As a correspondent who was recently at Surry Hills’ Winery,a burger can go on a board. Not breakfast.

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Right idea.

Well Connected Cafe on Urbanspoon

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Inner-West Review: Big Brekky

When we moved into our little part of the inner-west a couple of years ago, more than one friend or colleague said the same thing: “Oh, you’ve GOT to go to Big Brekky!”

Well, it’s been eighteen months, and last weekend we finally made it.

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“Like, it totally sucks I can’t buy a house?”

Every writer has a voice. I think that’s true, because every time I read Sydney Morning Herald economics columnist Jessica Irvine, all I hear is up-talking?

Take today’s offering. While the rest of the country is observing ANZAC Day and honouring the sacrifices of past generations on the battlefield (as well as getting really pissed and playing two-up), Irvine’s going after the oldies who are making it, like, really hard, you know, for her to get on the property ladder. This comes after her previous cringe-worthy life-event columns about her battles with weight and encounters with the wedding-industrial complex.

After taking pains to assure us that “I like old people”, and claiming that “Society benefits little from the so-called ‘generational wars’ that artificially pit young against old”, she then gets down to business: Generational warfare. Woe is us. Those greedy Augustus Gloops in adult nappies, swanning around like Rich Uncle Moneybags from Monopoly with their top hats, cigars, and zimmer-frames, have stacked the deck against us poor Generation X’s and Y’s. They’ve gotten tax breaks, we’ve gotten HECS debt. They’ve gotten house price inflation, we get rental bonds. Finally, the nub of the problem:

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Tipped Off: Gastro Park Whine List

Sound advice.

Another day, another news article which further confirms this blog’s long-standing belief that Australians – diners and restaurant workers alike – would be better off if we got rid of the ridiculous award wages system and moved to an American-style tipping system. Today’s Sydney Morning Herald runs with the story of one George Lipinksy, who claims he was dudded by a trendy Potts Point eatery, namely, the well-regarded but frankly horrifyingly-named Gastro Park.

”The manager [said] they were going to pay $19 or $21 at the weekend plus tips, and they share the tips,” Mr Lipinski said.

The negotiated hourly rate is less than the cost of a dish at the popular restaurant, where entrees start at $26 and mains at $39.

Well, the price of a share of the Herald’s parent company is far less than the price of a copy of the paper, but so what?

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Make Mine Meat!

Turns out, if we hadn’t been avid consumers of the stuff early on in history, we might not be here today:

If early humans had been vegans we might all still be living in caves, Swedish researchers suggested in an article Thursday.

When a mother eats meat, her breast-fed child’s brain grows faster and she is able to wean the child at an earlier age, allowing her to have more children faster, the article explains. That provided a distinct competitive advantage for early humans when limited resources and a small population made it difficult for them to thrive. “Eating meat enabled the breast-feeding periods and thereby the time between births to be shortened,” said psychologist Elia Psouni of Lund University in Sweden. “This must have had a crucial impact on human evolution.”

So take that, all you meat-free moralists! (h/t Instapundit).

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Ask A Prick: Long Lunch?

Welcome to the inaugural instalment of “Ask a Prick”. Got a question? E-mail pwafork [at] gmail [dot] com.

Dear Mr Prick: My sister and her husband have one last day of freedom before their son comes back from a week with the grandparents and are looking for a place to settle in for a weekend long lunch. Any suggestions?  –Law-Talkin’ Guy, The Rocks

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Inner-Suburban Bliss

So clicking around some of the area food blogs I find this review of local Italian eatery and Labor powerbroker-hangout Tuscany Restaurant, which I haven’t been to in ages, in which the clientele is described as

… local couples – the rescue/renovate brigade – lured in by reasonable (under $30) mains and a tasteful décor tweak …

Oh my. A more cuttingly accurate description of the locals here along the border country of Stanmore-Petersham would be hard to find. Continue reading

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South Coast Review: Rick Stein’s at Bannisters

So this site is getting a bit schizophrenic (yes, I know, no letters from the mental health lobby please), and what with all the politics, media, and culture posts, to say nothing of the overseas guests lately hosted at Chateau d’Prick, there’s been little time to post restaurant reviews. Let’s change that, eh? First up in this week’s great clearing of the backlog: Rick Stein’s at Bannisters, down in Mollymook on the beautiful New South Wales south coast.

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