The Table Comes First

I’ve just ordered my copy of Adam Gopnik’s The Table Comes First, and from the sounds of this Kirk Leech review, I’ve got something to look forward to, namely, an eloquent swipe at the moral vanity of those middle class organo-loco-ecofoodie types who have taken all the joy out of food:

 

Eating is one of life’s most enjoyable sensations. It’s fun and life-enhancing. Yet today, the pleasure of eating is increasingly weighed down with anxiety. Eating, once a relatively uncomplicated activity for many of us, has become laden with ethical and moral meaning and which has been tasked with grandiose political purpose.

Continue reading

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Reuben Blogging

A proper Reuben, Sydney-style.

So fans of this site (both of you) will be well familiar with my ongoing quest for the perfect Reuben sandwich, which has been thwarted at every turn by parvenu Brits and others who wouldn’t know a New York deli sandwich if it bit them.

Well, the quest — for the moment — appears to be over, and we now have a front-runner in ReubenQuest 2012: Spilling the Beans Cafe on Clarence Street in the CBD.

I went in the other day on a tip from a commenter, and here’s what I got:

A proper Reuben. Thick slabs of corned beef (honestly, they could have been thinner, but they were oh-so-tender). Sauerkraut. Proper Russian dressing. Great rye bread.

Not quite the Carnegie Deli, but pretty close. Well done.
Spilling the Beans on Urbanspoon

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Whine Tasting

For all the complaints that it is a hotbed of right-wingery, News Ltd’s opinion site The Punch certainly packs in the lefties. Here’s union hack Tara Moriarty indulging in economic illiteracy as she defends the night and weekend penalty rates that are crippling many restaurants:

But more importantly, white-collar workers are getting paid penalty rates. If you’re pulling down substantially more than the minimum wage then that is your penalty rate.

Right-o, then. I had my say on the issue recently here.

UPDATE: Tara Moriarty is a real supporter of those on the lowest rungs of society … like problem gamblers:

A SENIOR ALP official has called on independent crossbencher Andrew Wilkie to abandon his timetable for poker machine reform, in the first sign of internal party unrest over Julia Gillard’s power deal with the Tasmanian MP.

The liquor and hospitality workers union United Voice NSW secretary Tara Moriarty, who sits on the ALP national executive and is a vice-president of the NSW branch of the party, has warned Mr Wilkie that tens of thousands of jobs will be threatened by the push for mandatory pre-commitment on poker machines, and called on him to reconsider his timetable.

Ms Moriarty, a rising figure of the Labor Right, has foreshadowed taking her concerns to the Prime Minister if Mr Wilkie refuses to compromise, setting the scene for a potential internal push from the NSW Right faction to scuttle the poker machine reforms. “We would be campaigning heavily on this issue if it looked like it was going to become law,” Ms Moriarty said.

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Citizen Journalism

I know that the Sydney Morning Herald is in trouble and that its share price is only propped up at the moment by the prospect of a takeover by Gina Rinehart, but today’s Good Living supplement plumbs new depths of lazy, cut-and-paste journalism. Yes, I know this is the same paper that pays what is presumably a handsome salary to Adele Horin, whose chief talent seems to be cutting and pasting Australian Council of Social Services media releases. But the cover feature in this week’s Good Living is embarrassing enough to make even Alan “Alan Scissorhands” Ramsey – another erstwhile Fairfax stalwart – blush.

By the Prick’s count the story, “It’s all fare comment”, comes in at 1,132 words – of which a grand total of 928 were plucked from comment threads on the Herald‘s own website in which readers were invited to complain about the various ways they’ve been mistreated by restaurants and their staff. And this doesn’t count another 800 or so words worth of similar comments pasted together into a sidebar.

Without going into the validity of the readers’ complaints (some are understandable, some less so) this is truly a remarkable development. Ms Rinehart and the miners who are said to be eyeing off what’s left of the Fairfax empire have often been criticised for digging up and selling off minerals that belong to the Australian people.

Today the Herald has gone one better, collecting readers’ own words to sell back to them.

 

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Fifteen Second Rule

First of all, apologies for the lack of posts – work has been intruding of late, but pockets of clear air are beginning to appear.

So last night the vacuum sealer decided to give up the ghost, which was inconvenient as I was planning to sous-vide a couple of steaks for one of our favourite weeknight meals, “Steak on a Plate”. I had successfully gotten one ribeye sacked and vac’ed with a bit of salt, pepper and garlic oil ready to go in the water bath: 55 degrees for 55 minutes was the plan. When I hit the button on steak number two however, the machine just growled loudly and refused to work (but enough about my ex-wife!).

As annoying as this was – and it does throw a spanner in some of the weekend’s cooking plans – it gave me a chance to try something out which I’d read in Modernist Cuisine, a.k.a. the greatest Christmas present ever. Essentially the theory is that if you flip a steak every fifteen seconds (as opposed to flipping it once “and leaving the damn thing alone” as we were all taught to do in our youth) you get a much better result. Heat doesn’t build up as quickly beneath the outer crust of the steak, the meat cooks more evenly, needs less resting time, and even finishes quicker.

I should have taken a picture, because yeah, it worked. Sure it meant standing over a searing hot pan for six minutes and counting to fifteen-Mississippi about 18 times (you only get three flips in a minute as it takes about five seconds per turn). But the result was perfection: A nice crust, then very little brown before a wide, even core of pinkish-red flesh.

Next time you’re cooking a steak, give this a try. When I don’t have the equipment or the time to sous-vide, this will be my go-to technique.

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Wilford Brimley’s Gonna Kick Her Ass

OMG! Paula Deen’s been caught – the journo’s words, not mine – eating … wait for it … a cheeseburger. On a cruise ship. The horror.

Not only that, witnesses said the diabetes sufferer was “woolfing” it down.

Mitch Hedberg once observed that “Alcoholism is a disease, but it’s the only one you can get yelled at for having”, but I think we may just have to add diabetes to the list.

In the meantime, Deen’s got more trouble on her plate now that she has diabetes.

New York Nanny Mike Bloomberg just might cut her legs off.

And Wilford Brimley’s definitely gonna kick her ass.

UPDATE: Iowahawk sums it up.

 

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Make Them Work For It

So the Spectator Australia folk have finally put up a link to my piece suggesting that we ditch award wages in the restaurant industry and get servers hustling for tips instead:

Here I propose an experiment: very simply, the restaurant award should become optional. Under the terms of the test, restaurants could either pay their staff as directed by the government, or they could pay minimum wage and let tips make up the rest. To keep it fair, those working for restaurants still on the award would not be allowed to put so much as a tip jar next to the cash register, while establishments that had gone off the award would have to publicise that as well (including by pointing out their lower prices).

Were this to go forward, I predict three things would happen. Number one, the quality of service and price of food at non-award restaurants across Australia would improve substantially in the diner’s favour. Number two, the take-home earnings of those who were tipped — and systems would have to be in place to share out the tips beyond those working front-of-house — would increase. (When I was at university in Washington, DC, a friend worked weekends as a waiter at a local steakhouse and would come home with nearly $1,000 each night.) And finally, unions would do everything in their power to make life difficult for the non-award restaurants and their patrons and shut down the whole experiment.

Read the whole thing, as they say.

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Apologies…

…for the lack of activity in these parts. The weirdly abbreviated holiday week in Australia, plus an avalanche of paid work, has me still figuring out how to work writing into the schedule. To paraphrase Oscar Wilde, work is the curse of the blogging classes.

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Sneak Peek

The Prick With a Fork was on the road yesterday, in search of subject matter for this site’s inaugural review.

Any guesses where we wound up?

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Les Amuses

Foody things you may or may not have missed, or care about:

  • Paula Deen, the American doyenne of everything Southern deep fried, was recently diagnosed with Type II diabetes. Predictable gloating from healthy-living Northerners, including that paragon of healthy living, Anthony Bourdain, ensued. Top-notch takedown at the link.
  • I love cookbooks, but I don’t think this one will be in my Amazon shopping cart any time soon. I don’t even want to think about how the author advises one make seed mustard …
  • The Punch is trying to stir up outrage (and why should this day be different than any other?) against dirty foreigners and their nasty foods, in this case shark fin soup, just in time for Chinese New Year. Between xenophobic bogans and ban-everything lefties, a campaign is on to ban the stuff — though fortunately it doesn’t seem to have caught on in Haymarket. Myself, I think we should stop eating shark fin soup when sharks agree to stop eating people. Deal? Gung hai fat choy, everybody!
  • If you are worried about diabetes, everyone’s favourite cartoon cat can show you the way.

 

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